Vacationing in Florida this winter, I spent some time exploring Laura Ingalls Wilder’s brief sojourn there in the early 1890s. In pursuit of a better climate for Almanzo, who suffered in the cold of the Midwest, the Wilder family—Almanzo, Laura, and daughter Rose—traveled to the Florida Panhandle in October 1891. They planned to connect with her cousin Peter Ingalls, who had taken a homestead near Westville in Holmes County and married a local girl named Mary (“Molly”) McGowin.1 Wilder and Almanzo would help Peter farm corn, cotton, peanuts, and sweet potatoes in what Wilder referred to as “the piney woods of Florida, where the trees always murmur, where the butterflies are enormous, where plants that eat insects grow in moist places, and alligators inhabit the slowly moving waters of the rivers. But at that time and in that place, a Yankee woman was more of a curiosity than any of these.”2 Wilder’s statement immediately connected with me. She had not been able to find a place for herself as a northern woman among the people of the Florida Panhandle, just as I had not been able to blend in among the folk of the Appalachian Mountains of Kentucky when I moved there as a young bride in the 1970s.

Laura and Almanzo Wilder in Florida, ca. 1892. Courtesy Herbert Hoover Presidential Library and Museum
The only known photograph of the Wilders in Florida gives some context to Wilder’s characterization of herself as a curiosity. Standing next to Almanzo, who is seated, she wears a blouse with enormous leg-of-mutton sleeves, and her whole outfit seems out of place amid the Florida foliage. It is also in sharp contrast to the clothes worn by the impoverished local people as portrayed in “Innocence,” the award-winning short story Rose Wilder Lane published in 1922. Much of our understanding of the Wilders’ time in the panhandle is filtered through this story, which is set in the piney woods, where making and selling moonshine is the occupation of many of the residents, as it was in the hollers of Floyd County, Kentucky, when my husband and I lived there. As a type of self-protection, many of the people in such backwoods counties reject outsiders’ ways and fashions, an attitude that Lane describes in “Innocence.” Lane’s character Molly, based on Peter’s wife, is dressed simply in a gown of one color and goes barefoot inside and out. When Lane’s Yankee woman, based on her mother, visits Molly’s house, her hostess first yells at the dogs and then proclaims: “‘I’m right proud to see you all,’ she said, looking at mother’s calico dress. ‘We-all ain’t fine like Northerners, but sech as we got is good enough for us-uns. Light ’n’ come in.”3 Just like the people of the piney woods, our poorer Appalachian neighbors let us know that they were unimpressed by northerners, and they referred to us collectively as “furriners.” Since people from the northern United States were just as foreign as people from Egypt or Italy or even Louisville, we formed our own community of outsiders.
Wilder, on the other hand, was all alone and found the situation isolating and ultimately threatening. The fact that she stood out as not fitting into that time and place was something that her Florida relatives never forgot. As late as the 1970s, Peter and Mary Ingalls’s youngest daughter, Emma, told a story handed down in the family that underscored Wilder’s separateness. Laura, she recalled with amusement, had been helping Peter plant corn, “holding a big, black umbrella to shield herself from the hot Florida sun.” She had trouble balancing the umbrella and planting corn at the same time, and “in exasperation, Peter ordered her to the house.”4 The story is not told with any empathy for Wilder; instead, it emphasizes not only failure to fit in but also implies a general foolishness on her part. In the end, neither the climate nor the culture suited the Wilders, and the family headed back to De Smet in August 1892, less than a year after they arrived in the piney woods.
Like so many places, Westville, Florida, never lived up to its promoters’ promises. Peter and Mary Ingalls proved up on their homestead and raised their family near what is today a small town with a population between 253 and 261. When I Googled Westville to find out more about it, the most prominent item on websites was that Laura Ingalls Wilder had once lived there.5 It seems ironic that Wilder, who had disliked the place intensely, became its abiding distinction.
―Nancy Tystad Koupal
- William T. Anderson, ed., A Little House Sampler, by Laura Ingalls Wilder and Rose Wilder Lane (Lincoln: University of Nebraska Press, 1988), pp. 40–41; Alene M. Warnock, Laura Ingalls Wilder: The Westville Florida Years (Mansfield, Mo.: Laura Ingalls Wilder Home Assoc., 1979), pp. 7–8.
- Wilder, “Autobiographical Sketch,” in Stanley J. Kunitz and Howard Haycraft, eds., The Junior Book of Authors, 2d ed., rev. (New York: H. W. Wilson Co., 1951), p. 300.
- Lane, “Innocence,” in Little House Sampler, ed. Anderson, pp. 47–48.
- Warnock, Laura Ingalls Wilder, p. 8.
- “Discover Westville, FL,” unexploredflorida.com/destinations/westville/; “Westville, Florida,” Wikipedia. enwikipedia.org.




















